Thursday, August 14, 2008

Op Pop Tock weaving and Laos food

Our second day in Laos was one of our favorites so far on this vacation! After getting up early and feeding the monks (as mentioned in the last blog), we returned to the hotel for breakfast and then headed off to the Tad Sae waterfall. We were supposed to go to the Khuang Sii waterfall which is much larger but the road to it was flooded. As a result of all the rain, the Tad Sae waterfall was beautiful. It was more like several stories of white water rapids with several bamboo bridges for climbing over it and above it. We dipped our feet in but were unwilling to swim (unlike the Australian group who jumped right in!) because it was a little chilly ;o) To get to and from the falls we had to take water taxis and we saw the endless beauty of Laos scenery along the way.

After the waterfalls we headed back into town to a silver shop where the owner carves his own wood and uses all silver mined in Laos. The shop was beautiful and the owner very knowledgeable. We had lunch at a delicious local restaurant and walked around a Chinese market for awhile.

Next we headed to the Op Pop Tock weaving center. Here we learned about how silk is made from the silk worm to boiling the cocoon to pulling the silk through a small hole in wood and winding it for silk. This is still done in parts of Laos but now most of their silk is imported from China. Once the silk is prepared it is died. The local Laos people use several local plants and woods for dying the silk; indigo leaves, tamarind, sappon tree bark, teak leaves and many other indigenous species. They also use aluminum to clean the silk and some other useful products like rusty nails, ashes and limestone paste. Our guide then showed us the different types of weaving and the looms, free standing and back looms, that native weavers use. We observed several women weaving in the shop. The designs they were doing were so intricate and it can take several weeks to finish just one scarf, if the design is difficult enough! The Op Pop Tock group (which means East meets West) was started by 2 women who wanted to give local Laos women a safe environment to practice their skill and a world market in which to sell it. After observing the women we met the head weaver and dyer, Mr Kim. He and our guide assisted us in each dying 3 skeins of silk. Shane did purple, blue and yellow while Sarah did blue, red and pink. We were cutting leaves, boiling, pounding with mortars and pestle, then dipping the silk in the dye, ringing it out and letting it dry in the sun. It was hard work and we were glad to only have to do 3 colors each! As our silk was drying our guide presented us with a plate of traditional Laotian foods as well as lemongrass tea, tamarind tea and hibiscus/lemongrass tea. All of it was delicious. The Laos food was very spicy. We had chili sauce, tomato dip resembling salsa, eggplant dip and another obscure green vegetable dip that we used rice cakes and dried riverweed (yes, seaweed from the Mekong river) to eat with. Also, dried buffalo meat, traditional Laos sausage and pickled bamboo. It was all very foreign but delicious!

That evening, continuing in our trend of eating at 1 completely local restaurant where no one speaks a word of English and the waitress stares at you until you order (this seems to be universal) we ate at a Lao bbq restaurant for our 3rd dinner in Luang Prabang. For approx $5 we received a pot of boiling chicken broth, placed over an open wood stove situated on our table with sides of raw chicken and fish, a basket of every vegetable imaginable, 2 eggs, garlic, chili peppers and ginger. Included in the meal was a pack of very sweet but clearly stray canines meandering about our feet for scraps falling through our chopsticks. We clearly looked like fools placing each item in the pot individually and were saved by a kind Laos waiter who came over and placed all of our food in the pot, mixing it, serving us and placing a dollop of peanut sauce on top. We topped if off with some slightly warm Lao beer and by the end of the dinner, Shane was literally soaked from head to toe with sweat from a combination of the ridiculous Asian humidity, the stifling open flame before his face, the 98 degree lao beer, and the massive amount of chile peppers he decided to add to his meal. But he loved every second of it! It was quite an experience, to say the least!

Laos and the story of Buddha

When the communist government took over Laos in 1975 they originally banned the practice of Buddhism. They quickly realized, however, that this was a futile attempt as most Laotian people continued to practice without hesitation. The government now maintains a neutral position in regards to the religion. In Laos, almost all men, at some point, practice as novice monks. Usually they will go to a Buddhist school for 3 months to 1 year for regular school classes, as well as specific classes in Buddhism and sandscrit. Our guide is no exception and attended a Buddhist school, as a novice, for 1 year when he was young. He has led us through many of the temples in Laos and given detailed descriptions of the wall mosaics that describe many of the stories believed by Buddhist people. According to him, Buddhism is more of a spirituality than an actual religion and most Laos Buddhist still practice some type of Hinduism or animism (belief in animal spirits). The stories are very similar to greek myths (in fact, according to our guide, the 1st Buddha image was created by Alexander the Great - a Greek!) in that they involve princesses and princes, monkey gods, bird gods, serpent gods and demons, all battling in a good versus evil universe. So, during our time exploring the Laos buddhist temples, the Pak Ou Buddhist caves and giving alms to the monks as they walked through the village at 6am this morning, we have learned the story of Buddha's last life (he had 7), as I will now relate.

A boy was born to a Hindu king and queen. The boy's mother died 7 days after his birth and the king was very upset. He called for 16 fortune tellers to come and declare the future of his son. Several informed the father that the son would become a great king and warrior. The king was very happy. When the boy was 7 years old, a hermit came into town and asked to see the boy. He read the boys fortune and informed the father that the boy would become a great spiritual leader, a buddha. The king was very disappointed and hid the boy from the world, never allowing him out of the kingdom. At the right age, the boy married, had a child, and took on responsibilities of a prince. However, he desired to see the outside world. So, one night he and a servent stole a horse and they rode out of the kingdom, into the outside world. The boy saw all kinds of human suffering - death, hunger, disease, poverty; and he decided he did not want to be human if this is what it meant. So, he left his family and his kingdom, cut off his hair, and moved into the woods to give up all earthly things and to learn everything he could. He was taught by a hermit. Once he learned everything he could from the hermit he traveled the world, continuing to learn, until he reached enlightenment. Once enlightened, he began to teach all over Asia and many people followed his teachings. When Buddha was in his 80's, he went to visit a blacksmith. The blacksmith went to cook Buddha's lunch and turned into a horse (I kind of missed why this happened, but for some reason he turned into a horse and then served the lunch). The lunch consisted of pork, and some poisionious mushrooms that the blacksmith didn't know where poisionious but Buddha, b/c he was enlightened, knew. And he knew it was his time to go to paradise. So, he told the people of the village not to eat the meal, it was just for him. He also said, "when I die, remember me in your hearts, not in life." Therefore, no image was made of buddha until Alexander the Great conquered India and was taught buddhism by a local princess. Being Greek, and fond of worshiping images, he fashioned the 1st buddha image. The buddha image has been worshiped ever since.

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Laos

Laos has to be the most beautiful place on the earth. Picture magnificent mountains covered with lush rain forest and a strong river flowing down the middle. Then picture this for miles, only occasionally broken by small villages with thatched roof homes, farmers working the rice paddies that line the sides of some hills and long boats, quietly breaking through the water with villagers on their way to work. This was our view for the past 2 days as we moved down the Mekong on a “slow boat” which resembles a long house boat and was reserved entirely for Shane and I! We left Thailand by water taxi and headed over to Huang Xai, the border town of Laos. The customs office was partially underwater from the heavy rains but that didn’t seem to stop the backpackers from flowing into town.

Laos was the last of the southeast Asia countries to open it’s doors to the West and tourism. As a result, as well as its communist government, the country is nearly untouched by the outside world. Our first stop in Laos was Pak Beng, the largest town on the western side of Laos. We stayed in the very first hotel built in the town! It was beautifully done with traditional Laos’s architecture and accommodations, an excellent Laos’s dinner was served and the staff was professional and spoke excellent English. However, several things were there to remind us of the poverty that still prevails: no air-conditioning in the room, the town’s 1 road was unpaved and very muddy from all the rain and we had to take a handmade raft to cross the road because it was flooded! There was no pretense of tourism here – it’s sink or swim, literally!

Our second stop was supposed to be Kamu lodge, a type of home stay where we would stay in a private lodge in a village. However, the lodges were underwater from the rain so we trekked onward toward Luang Prabang! Along the way we made 3 stops. The first was at a Hmong village. The villagers were incredibly kind and stopped their work to take pictures with us, show us there handiwork and take us through their homes. The homes were made of bamboo and thatched roofs, with areas boarded off indoors for the bedrooms, a small kitchen with a fire on the floor and a small area for eating and sitting. They were larger than we had expected and very clean. There was no running water or electricity and each villager worked very hard in the fields and around the village. The man we spoke with had left the village to work for the forest and recreation division but was sent back by the government to help the Hmong organize their farming and create a Hmong bank. We were followed throughout the village by a small group of children who giggled at everything we did.

Secondly we stopped at the Pak Ou Buddha caves, natural caves that were carved out near the mouth (Pak) of the Ou river. The native Laotian’s believed the caves to be sacred and filled them with Buddha images; there are around 400 small statues in the cave. The cave was forgotten and lost for many years, but rediscovered in the early 20th century and is now a spot for the faithful Buddhist traveler to stop and offer sacrifice, as well as a look back in time for the tourist. After the cave we stopped at “whisky village,” a “lowlilaos” village that specializes in making rice wine and whisky. Lowlilaos are the Laos people who make there living near the water. There homes are built on the ground, which differentiates them from the Khmer people who build higher up the hillside with elevated homes. The wine and whisky were better than expected and we purchased a few bottles for home.

We arrived in Luang Prabang in time to check into our hotel and peruse the Hmong night market (extensive market taking over several streets with everything from food to groceries to electronics) and have dinner at the international restaurant recommended by our guide, L’ elephant. It was delicious and we went to bed full and ready to explore the crown jewel of Asia; Luang Prabang.

Chaing Rai, Thailand

Chaing Rai

Continuing north we ended in Chaing Rai, the northernmost province of Thailand. We visited the Hill tribe museum where we learned the history, lifestyles and current issues surrounding the hilltribe people. Below the museum is a restaurant called “Cabbages and Condoms” started by a Thai business man to help decrease the effects of HIV/AIDS on his people. After we drove up to Mae Chan, another trading post for the Akha and Yao people and visited the village of the Lisu (from Myanmar) and Lahu (from Tibet) tribes. We continued to Mae Sai, the northernmost point of Thailand. There is a small bridge connecting Thailand to Burma and the streets are lined with vendors. Thai are allowed to go into Burma until 6pm and many go for discount shopping.

We ate lunch at a hotel overlooking the Golden triangle. It is an amazing view to stand at the point of 1 country and clearly see the triangle of the Mekong and Ruak rivers dividing Laos, Thailand and Burma. The history of opium is everywhere in this part of the country and we learned about the process of opium growing and production at the Opium Museum. The area is called the Golden triangle because opium was so precious it was traded for gold, not money. Opium originally grew in China and was run by the British which caused several disagreements with the country, resulting in the Opium Wars. During this time, many of the hill tribes from China migrated to Laos, Burma and Thailand and brought their opium growing skills along with them. Opium was the main cash crop for many of the tribes until it was outlawed in the mid 1900’s first in Thailand, then Burma and finally Laos. Thailand has basically eradicated its growth but it can still be found in parts of Burma and Laos.

We returned to our hotel in Chaing Rai for dinner and to check out the night market which seems to be the Thai version of a shopping mall. There is one in every city and they sell everything from electronics to clothes to food. The following morning we got up early to drive to the Thailand border town of Chaing Dao and cross over into Laos.

Hill tribes

The following day we headed out to see the hill tribes who live in the hills around Chaing Mai. There are 6 main groups, the Karen, Lahu, Akha, Hmong, Lisu and Tai (Yao). There are a few other smaller groups as well. On the way to the villages we stopped at the Tham Chiang Dao complex – a natural cave formation of 5 interconnected caves. We walked through Tham Phra Nawn and Tham Seua Dao. The other 3 caves are unavailable in the rainy season because they fill with too much water.

After the caves we went to the Lisu (also called Kayong) and Karen villages. The Lisu are distinguished by the large earrings they wear which stretch out their ears. They place them in the little girls ears at age 3 and slowly increase the size until they are approx 1 inch in diameter! The Karen are the largest tribe in Thailand and are also largely in Burma. A smaller sect of the Karen, the long necked Karen, wear brass rings around their necks, also starting around age 3. The rings initially began when their village was attacked by tigers and several members died from bites to the neck. The local leader decided all women should wear rings around their necks. The girls begin with 3 rings and then add 3 every few years until they are married. The rings cause the neck to become very weak so the women will not take the rings off until they die, because it would be dangerous.

The next tribe we visted was the Ahka. They are considered the poorest tribe in Thailand, migrated from Tibet and had originally made most of their money from the sale of opium. The Ahka are distinguished by their elaborate head gear decorated with fur and silver coins. Several of the older women smoked pipes and their mouths were stained from the chewing of betel berries, which have a mildly stimulating and addictive quality. The Ahka used to farm land, then burn the land and move onto a new place. Each year the leader would drop an egg on the ground, if it broke, they moved; if it stayed hard, they stayed. This was how they could tell the land was too hard to farm. Since burning land is now illegal in Thailand, the government has set up land for them to live on and farm so their homes are now permanent. However, most still live in bamboo huts with thatched roofs. A giant swing in the middle of the village is used 3 days a year for the Ahka new year. At this time the boys and girls dress in their finest since this is the time marriages are arranged and the girls and boys can finally meet. Prior to this, the homes are separated with men sleeping outdoors and women indoors. No man is allowed to enter the women’s room.

After these visits we drove up the mountain, towards Chaing Rai to Mae Chan where we visited the Yao people. Mae Chan was founded by Kuomitang soliders who fled communist China after 1949 and settled in the hills. The Yao people now grow primarily rice and tea and are the most integrated of all the hill tribes. We tasted some delicious freshly grown tea and visited the tea plantation.

Chaing Mai

We arrived in Chaing Mai early in the morning and headed straight for the Mae Taman elephant camp. Once there we were able to feed and play with the elephants before the show began. The show started with the elephant bath time. Elephants are so cute and they were tromping through the water, filling their noses with water and blowing at each other and the people. After their baths, their riders took them up to the main stage for the “Elephants at work” show which featured them doing several tricks including kicking a soccer ball and making a basket with a basketball. Lastly, the elephants actually painted pictures with their tusks. It was amazing! This camp uses the show and sells the paintings to raise money to feed the elephants who eat several tons of food per day. After the show we were able to go for a ride on the elephants which gave us a great and unique view of the Chaing Mai country side. After the ride we rode back to camp on an ox cart. It gave a whole new meaning to the importance of being evenly yoked :o)

After returning to the camp for lunch we took a short ride down the Mae Taeng river in a flat boat raft. We had a close up view of the beautiful flora and fauna that is in full bloom in the rainy season.

After the ride we returned to our car and drove up the Doi Suthep Moutain. Halfway up is a beautiful spot for pictures. At the top we visited the Wat Prathat Doi Suthep which is a temple named after the hermit Sudeva who lived on this mountain before it was accessible by road. To reach the temple you must climb 306 steps with a staircase in the shape of a giant serpent. We cheated and drove to the top and walked down the steps!

Finally, we visited once last temple, the Wat Suan Dok where the ashes of Chaing Rai’s royal family are buried. Before this we stopped at Wawee coffee, a coffee shop set up by the mother of the King to bring fair trade Hill tribe coffee to a larger population. We ended that night at Tamarind village – an amazing hotel that mixed luxury with the traditional décor of the area.

That night for dinner we ate at a local restaurant recommended by our guide. It was very Thai and we were definitely the only tourist there, a fact exemplified by our waitress who stood at our table, pen in hand, the entire time we looked at the menu and then called her 3 co-workers to assist with understanding our English requests. The guitarist, who initially was performing Thai music, suddenly switched to a replica of American songs that we have heard every Thai musician since playing; John Denver – Country Roads, the Eagles – Tequila Sunrise and a few other folk songs that are only heard on Delila! It was amazing!!

Sunday, August 10, 2008

Bangkok!

So, Sarah is planning on living in Thailand. Unfortunately, Shane has to return to NY to work, so they can afford Thailand so Sarah, sadly, will have to return with him. However, not without finding an Asian market where she can attempt to recreate the delicious flavors they have grown accustomed to! The Thai markets are open almost 24 hours a day and have the most delicious foods, especially fruits that we have never even heard of: longon – a grape type flavor in a small kiwi colored shell; Durian – smells so bad you are not allowed to bring it into air-conditioned buildings but tastes sweet and delicious; lamputan – red and fuzzy shell with a sweet fruit inside; dragonfruit – white fruit with black dots; and many more whose names we cannot remember. All are grown locally and are cheap and delicious!!

We arrived late to Bangkok thanks to the typhoon so we headed straight to our Thai massage. Thai massage is a combination of deep tissue massage, stretching, pulling at the joints and chiropractics. It was incredible! After the massage we checked into our hotel and headed downtown to dinner at a local restaurant. The restaurant kept its fish in large tanks and then killed some and placed them on ice that evening. We were able to chose our fish by pointing at the exact one we wanted, then the waiter took it to the back where the chef would either flash fry, bbq or broil the fish and serve it with rice and cooked vegetables. It was delicious! After dinner we walked around the night market and got a small sample of Bangkok’s night life.

The next day was a full day of touring. We visited Wat Trimtir where the newly discovered 5 ½ ton golden Buddha was discovered; Wat Po, the temple of the reclining Buddha and Wat Benjamaborpit, the white marble temple made with a combination of Italian marble and Thai architecture. We also went to the Grand Palace, the former residence of the King and Queen of Thailand and saw the emerald Buddha temple, where the small Buddha made completely of jade is displayed. We took a tour by river barge through the canals of Bangkok which are extensive and still very much a function of everyday life. People commute by canal, there were several floating stores and restaurants and even a post man barge! On the tour we stopped at the Royal Barges museum where the barges of the King are housed. These were once used in battle and for royal processions, they are still functional and used for special occasions. We also stopped at the Temple of the Dawn where the King, after Burma had seized Bangkok, fled away in a barge and ended at this point when the sun began to rise. He created a temple and named it temple of the dawn. We climbed to the top (up very steep steps!) to see fantastic views of the city.

At the end of the day we visited Jim Thompson’s house and museum. Jim Thompson was born in Delaware but fell in love with Thailand after WWII. He built a traditional Thai house and started the Jim Thompson silk enterprise that introduced the world to Thai silk. He disappeared in Malaysia when he was 61 years old never to be seen again, but his industry remains and continues to provide silk throughout the world.
After our very full day, we headed off quickly to the Bangkok train station to hop on our overnight train to Chaing Mai.